Camino Stage 18: Terradillos de Los Templarios to Bercianos de Real Camino


A shorter post for this section as most of the day of about 25 km was spent walking through the same Meseta country that I have been writing about, and I don’t think anyone will appreciate more photos of flat horizons. It felt like a long day by the end, particularly the last 6 km or so as it was getting up to 26C.  .

I did however forget one of highlights of the previous day when walking with Tom and Jenny with flat barley fields either side of us. We were walking quietly along when suddenly a deer came crashing through the barley from our right, leapt the path, and raced into the next field. His track was like a torpedo trail flattened through the barley. Seconds later we could see a large dog, a hound or mastiff, all muscles and sinew, crashing after him. Next came a set of fluffy ears bouncing up and down in the tallish barley.

We last saw the deer’s white tail bobbing up and down 2 fields away, and the hound was still after it. The little setter finally made the path, stopped looking a little confused and then bolted at pace back the way he had come! I could watch his ears race away – wild life  in the Spanish countryside.

Back to this day: after the hot afternoon arrival in Bercianos, it was a shame that the Hostal Rivero wasn’t very welcoming. Some hostels and albeurges are really friendly, sometimes family run, and with staff that go out of their way to give you a pleasant stay. Others like this one in this tiny two Hostal village seem to resent that they have to rely on and take pilgrims in.

I got out of there in the evening and walked around the village taking photos of the sunset and the mud brick buildings that are so typical of this part of rural Spain.

But the highlight of this stay came when I arrived back at the Hostal to hear really nicely sung Spanish folk/love songs (I was later told) coming from the terrace area. A troupe of young women, dressed in troubadour outfits and playing guitars and a mandolin like instrument, had given a concert at the church service and repaired to the Hostal to continue. A pleasant way to end a not so good stay.




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