Camino Stage 19: Bercianos de Real Camino to Mansilla de las Mulas

Another long flat, but surprisingly easy, walk to Mansilla the last town before reaching León and a rest day. The day was 27 kilometres long, so a fair way, but the day was beautifully cool with a slight breeze. It was so easy that when I inadvertently walked past the only two open cafes in the first town on the route, I walked on for 20 kilometres overall with only a couple of quick drink breaks until I had a proper stop.

By that stage I had caught up again with Sean from Ireland who was hobbling along on badly blistered feet. We stopped for lunch in Reliegios while he tended his feet. In the end two passing Canadian nurses tended to him after I had pushed on for the last 5 kilometres.

The best part of the day was the great Albeurge de Chemin we had been booked into that night. While I have been walking by myself the last couple of days, Denis and Angela are also both separately booked through Raw Travel and we mostly stay at the same place. This albeurge was totally the opposite of the night before – very friendly and couldn’t do enough to make you comfortable.

The building itself was made in the mud brick (adobe) style of the town. I’ve included a photo of Denis and Angela in their little dining area. The food was excellent, and the wall behind them in the photo is about 250 years old. The grapevine in the terrace area was 150 years old.


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