Camino Stage 28: Sagudo to Triacastela

I worked out during the previous evening that I had eventually climbed over 750 metres yesterday due to needing to go over a couple of high points after O Cebreiro to get to Casa Rodriguez. So I knew why I was fairly tired when I went to bed.

I had told the marvellous señora that I’d be at breakfast at 8am, so wasn’t expecting to crash for nearly 11 hours. When she knocked on my door the second time, I thought she was rousing me for a late breakfast with the French group, but the guy to collect my second pack had arrived. My pack left the building before I’d even left the bedroom!

And then the lovely lady, knowing that I’d arrived with only 14 Euros in cash the night before, charged me a total of only 12 Euros for the 3 course meal and drinks the night before. Really nice people here. Then she drove me back up the hill to the Camino, and I only had 15 kilometres mostly downhill to go.

I walked easily, just taking my time as it was such a short day. It was quite lovely – a crisp morning (4C) and walking along easy paths and along green tunnels in the wooded sections. My pack was light; mainly because I had forgotten to fill my water bottles in my rush to get out of the bedroom! The French thought it hilarious that the van had arrived before I got up; but I must have needed it and I felt really refreshed.

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The clouds were very low. Climbing a little around a hilltop curve, I could feel water on my face. I thought at first that it was raining but then realised I had walked up into the bottom of the cloud – a lovely feeling.

After walking about 11 kilometres, I stopped at the last village to spend my last coins on a Coke Zero, just as it started to drizzle a little. The girl at the counter told me I could use Visa, so with the drizzle outside I had the Galician broth (something green and broad beans) in front of the fire while I waited for the drizzle to pass. But she couldn’t reach Visa over her wifi and I just said ‘no problem’ and tried to cancel the order. “Insisto! Insisto!”, she said, ripping the top off the Coke so I couldn’t return it and taking a basket of bread to my table, and then the soup. I was to have it for nothing with a smile. (On leaving I asked her to give it one more try and it worked- a whole 5 Euros). These people for the most part seem kindly disposed to pilgrims (Los Peregrinos).

And finally a nice little descent to Triacastela bumping into Denis, his daughter Rachel, and Angela on the way. Tonight’s stop is in the foothills – small but attractive and the Pension Lemos is clean and neat; a friendly easy day, and tomorrow looks to be also a relatively easy 20km to my last rest stop: the bigger town of Sarria where I’ll only be 120km and 5 days walk to Santiago.

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